1. Can I buy a new Citroen
in the USA?
No. Citroen sold its last new car in 1973 (a Citroen
SM). However, several independent grey-market importers picked up the Citroen
mantle and imported Citroens up until about 1995. Most notably, these companies
were Target and Fournet (2CV importers until about 1989, Target imported
them as kitcars and Fournet as refurbished cars), Trend Imports (CX Diesel
importers until about 1982), EuroCar (CX IE importers until 1987) and CXA
or CX Automotive (importers of the CX IE and XM V6 until 1995). Unfortunately,
in the last several years, the DOT (the US Department of Transportation)
and EPA (the automotive branch of the Environmental Protection Agency)
have tightened their requirements to a point that it is no longer financially
feasible for an independent importer to bring in cars.
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2. Can I import a Citroen
into the USA?
Yes and no. No Citroens newer than 25 years
old can be legally imported into the USA without going through a complicated
and expensive compliance red-tape courtesy of the DOT and EPA (see question
#1). But, any Citroen, 25 years or older, can be brought into the USA without
having to be complied.
" Under 49 U.S.C. § 30112(b)(9) (formerly
section 108(i) of the Act), "any motor vehicle that is at least 25
years old" is not subject to importation restrictions. All vehicles
less than 25 years old must be determined eligible for importation by one
of the following methods before the vehicle may be imported under contract
with a Registered Importer as described in the Vehicle Importation Guidelines.
"
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3. Can I use Dextron
II instead of the Citroen LHM?
Yes and no. Dextron II, like any other mineral-based
hydraulic oil, can be used as an emergency alternative to the Citroen LHM
fluid. However, it is not recommended that Dextron II be used on a long-term
basis. Dextron II differs from LHM in several ways. First, Dextron II is
red instead of green - sounds minor, but you wouldn't believe how many
mechanics assume it's brake fluid because of the oil's color. Second, Dextron
II is a higher viscosity oil than LHM - this causes all your hydraulic
components to react slower than the thinner LHM. Thirdly, Dextron II uses
a lot of detergents that will react adversely with any rubber seals and
o'rings in the Citroen hydraulic system. Finally, and most importantly,
Dextron II is a very abrasive oil (put some between your fingers - it feels
gritty) that will actually wear down moving metal components. Past experience
has even shown us that any Citroen that has used Dextron II for more than
30,000 miles can not go back to LHM. The Dextron II will have worn down
the Citroen's hydraulic system to a point that it will still function (barely)
with the Dextron II (because of the oil's higher viscosity) but will have
massive internal leakage when changed back to the thinner LHM.
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4. What happens if I
put brake fluid in my LHM system?
Remember Chernobyl? The Citroen LHM hydraulic system will suffer
an equally devastating meltdown. Even the smallest amount of the vegetable-based
brake fluid could damage a Citroen LHM system to the tune of several thousand
dollars. Although extensive flushing of the hydraulic system will lessen
and slow down the damage, the brake fluid will attach itself to many of
the larger seals and diaphrams (spheres and accumulators) and could cause
further hydraulic deterioration for many coming years. Sometimes the only
possible repair is to replace or reseal the entire hydraulic system. Solution?
Make sure that only you or a qualified Citroen mechanic adds fluid to the
hydraulic resevoir.
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5. Is the DS Citromatic
transmission reliable?
Yes. The Citromatic DS uses basically the same transmission and clutch
as the manual-shift DS (all internal parts are interchangeable). However,
instead of a clutch pedal and mechanical linkage, the Citromatic uses an
hydraulic brain and a myriad of other hydraulic components. Problems, if
any, ensue when an enterprising mechanic or owner tries to make an adjustment
without consulting the repair manual. There are 3 adjustments on the Citromatic
and adjusting any one will affect the other 2. In addition to the manual
transmission's adjustment of the clutch clearance, the Citromatic also
has an adjustment for the clutch-drag speed (engagement from standstill
- made on the centrifugal regulator) and clutch engagement speed (engagement
speed between gears - made on the clutch-engagement control). The Citromatic
can be as problem-free as the manual-shift DS and, in many ways, much more
enjoyable to drive.
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6. Are the timing chains
on the SM prone to failure?
A more accurate question might be 'are you and your mechanic in sync
with the SM's maintenance requirements?' The SM has an undeserved reputation
for timing-chain failure - mostly due to the ignorance of owners and mechanics.
Most, if not all, of SM chain failures are a result of the chains being
improperly adjusted or ignored. The cam chains have to be manually adjusted
every 6,000 miles and are typically replaced every 30,000 miles. Although
I won't go into detail as to how the chains should be adjusted, mechanics
frequently make the mistake of not removing the valve covers when they
are doing the adjustments. The covers HAVE to be removed
to check the chains' tightness and the camshafts top-dead marks, to prevent
and check for accidental chain jumps and to ensure the chains haven't reached
the end of their adjustments. Overtightening can also cause problems as
it will result in too much tension on the camshafts and possible chain
breakage under load. Solution: follow the recommended maintenance intervals
and adjustment procedures.
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7. Can I use a 2CV as
a daily driver?
Yes, millions of Frenchmen and other 2CV lovers have done so for
over 50 years. Many Americans cite the greater distances one must travel
in the USA as a concern when considering a 2CV purchase. To anyone considering
the 2CV as anything other than a city or second car, I would certainly
recommend the 602cc-powered version over its smaller-engined brethren.
A 1982-1990 2CV6 is capable of doing 75 mph on the freeway and, despite
a lack of power windows, locks and air conditioning, is a very practical
daily driver. Ask any 2CV owner - he/she will swear it's the most fun you
can have on your daily commute.
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8. Should I consider
the automatic transmission on the SM?
Yes and no. To a potential SM buyer, I will recommend, in most cases,
to avoid the automatic version - they are underpowered (especially the
1972 2.7L version), problematic (most are improperly maintained or repaired),
and less likely to retain their value. However, some buyers, for whatever
reason, will only consider an automatic. To those buyers I suggest they
only consider the 1973 3.0L version with either very low mileage and well
documented maintenance records or an otherwise good car with a bad transmission.
Many upgrades and improvements can be done when rebuilding the transmission
to make it a more-practical long-term car and an enjoyable driver. Care
must exercised when choosing a garage to undertake the rebuild as most
are unfamiliar with the transmission's requirements.
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9. Can I push-start
rather than crank-start an 11CV?
Never. The transmission case is unable to take the stress of 'bump'
starting and consequently will crack or break.
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10. I am thinking of
buying a DS/ID, what year should I buy?
Although choosing a DS or ID is mostly weighed by personal preference
- do you prefer the early thin-bumpered single-headlight model, the later
version single headlight car, or the 1968-on dual-headlight car? -or- do
you want air-conditioning? (practical only on the 1970-on models) -or-
do you want a Citromatic rather than a manual shift? -or- simplicity (ID
and D Special) over luxury (DS19 and DS21)? Keeping that in mind, there
are several other important considerations.
If you want a car that's easy to maintain, consider a 1970-on D-Special.
They have less hydraulic hardware than the Citromatic DS, the small Solex
carburator is thrifty and fairly dependable, and parts are easier to get
than pre-1966 models.
If you are unsure of your or your mechanic's ability to maintain
the hydraulics then go with a LHM car (in the USA, 1969 1/2-on) rather
than an earlier LHS2 car. If badly maintained by its previous owner, a
LHS2 car (due to the fluid's propensity to attract water) could be a maintenance
nightmare.
Do you want power rather than economy? Then you definitely want a
1966 or later model (with the later-version 5-main bearing engine) and
DS21, or DS23 if you can find one, rather than an ID or D-Special. Also
you might consider a manual-shift DS21 rather than a Citromatic as some
power is lost through the Citroen's clutchless shifting.
Do you want ease of parts access? Again, consider a 1966-on model
and preferably even a 1970-on model as new trim items are getting hard
to find for the older cars and some mechanical components are impossible
to find.
But, all things considered, if you are a typical classic car buyer,
you buy with your heart and not your head and, although some of the above
might of be of some consideration, you will buy a certain DS or ID because
that's the look you want and will deal with the consequences later. Good
luck.
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